pot au feu

Boeuf gardiane

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C'est le plat traditionnel des camarguais, puisque cette daube est préparée à partir de viande de taureau, élevé dans cette région et accompagnée de riz. Le taureau de Camargue est la seule viande en France à avoir obtenu un A.O.C. en 1996. De plus la viande de taureau très riche en protéine génère 60 % de moins de corps gras que la viande de bœuf.

Ingrédients pour 4 personnes : 1,5 kg. de viande de "Toro" (jarret, macreuse) - 100g de couenne - 100 gr de champignons de paris -150 g. d'échalote - 200 gr de carottes -
15 cl huile d'olive, Graisse de canard -Un bouillon de boeuf et tous les élèments de la marinade .

Marinade : 100 grammes d'oignon haché,
100 gr de carottes râpées, poudre de muscade
1 bouquet garni, sel, poivre, thym. 10 cl d'huile d'olive
1 cuillère à café de" quatre épices"
1O cl de vinaigre ou 1 jus de citron
1 pelure d'orange séchée
2 belles gousses d'ail écrasée
1,5 litre de vin rouge bien fruité

Faites mariner la viande la veille dans le vin rouge dans lequel vous aurez pris soin d'émincer les oignons, les carottes et l'ail, avec le vinaigre et les zestes et des baies de 4 poivres. Le lendemain, faites revenir les lardons de petit salé dans la cocotte.Egouttez la viande, roulez chaque morceau dans un peu de farine et faites-la revenir à feu vif dans la cocotte. Puis ajoutez la marinade.

Couvrir la cocotte , avec une pate brisée faire un joint en bourrelet autour du couvercle et laissez cuire quatre bonnes heures à tout petit feu .

Servez cette daube gardianne avec du riz ou des pommes de terre vapeur - saler avec de la fleur de sel de Camargue . A déguster avec un bon vin de Tavel ou un Costières du Gard.

fr/restaurantmarseille-boeufgardiane.htm

Pot-au-feu

Pot-au-feu is a dish of beef cooking very slowly on weak fire in a bouillon of vegetables and a bouquet garni. It's a traditional dish of boiled-beef based French cuisine. Pot-au-feu is often considered rustic: "When she sitted, for dinner, by the round table covered with a three-day table-coat, in front of his sour husband who discovered the soup bowl and said delighted: "Ah! the good pot-au-feu! I don't know anything better than this", she thought about the refined dinners, glittering silverware, tapestry covering walls of lively ancient characters and strange birds in the middle of an enchanted forest; the thought about the exquisite dishes served in wonderful crockery, of whispered gentleman words heard with the smile of a sphinx, eating pink flesh of a trout or wings of a partridge." (Maupassant, La parure, 1884). On the opposite, as it contains flesh, some think of it as an expensive dish: "-Sir, she said to the valet the second time he came after he closed the fruits bowl, won't you bring once or twice a week the pot-au-feu because of your... -Yes. -I'll have to go to the butcher's. -Not at all; you will make us some bouillon of poultry, farmers won't mind giving you hard work. But I'll tell Cornoiller to kill some crows. That game gives the best bouillon on Earth." (Balzac, Eugénie Grandet, 1833)

Pot au feu

fr/restaurant-pot-au-feu.htm

Seasons of pleasures

Laughing eyes; Loury loves his fellow humans. He makes it obvious through his welcome and in the plate. Chez Loury, respect of

everyone includes respect of the seasons. Humility to nature explains why seasons give the tempo of his menus.
Here the land and his treasures appear with most evidence. The chef is inviting you to a cuisine tour in Provence. This Phocean

establishment, next to the Vieux Port, makes wonderful bouillabaisse. But when the moment comes, Loury also proposes game.

Quality of the products is there. Loury can make himself most discrete, in a very simple way he proposes a pan of chanterelles.

Well, isn't just talent this ability to keep it simple when it should be?
It's even more relevant, as creativity is really there. The marvelous procession of urchins proves it best. All the flavours mix up

with subtlety, and are on the service of this beautiful sea fruit.
And what about the 'canard à la presse'? A lot to say about this duck meat delight, above all that you should taste it.
One more word to add that his sorbet aux herbes de Provence ends up the meal the most admirable way.
On the map of cuisine pleasures, the name of Loury can be read in block letters...

LA MARSEILLAISE P.M.

fr/restaurant-gibiers-canard.htm

L'oursin sort de sa bogue

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Les oursinades démarrent à Sausset-les-Pins (lire p.18) et donnent à l'hiver comme un petit goût iodé et printanier. L'occasion de déguster l'oursin à la cuillère sur un coin de rocher ou cuisiné dans l'un des restaurants que Sortir a sélectionnés.Depuis vingt-cinq ans cet établissement marseillais fait des produits de la mer sa matière première. « Et depuis 4 ou 5 ans, je propose un menu spécialement dédié à l'oursin » glisse Bernard Loury. On patientera donc quelques jours et l'on ira - pendant tout le mois de février - Chez Loury goûter aux plats imaginés par le chef. "Parce que dans notre région, on le déguste surtout cru, mais rien n'interdit de le découvrir autrement."
Ce menu voué aux chairs orangées varie chaque année. Pour ce faire, le chef a élaboré une dizaine de recettes, sobrissirnes ou inédites. « Les saveurs de l'oursin se marient avec beaucoup de choses » poursuit le chef qui confie sa préférence pour les mets dans lesquels sont conservées « la finesse et la fraîcheur de la chair crue ». Ainsi, après avoir simplement dégusté l'oursin à la mouillette, le goûtera-t-on « à l'espagnole ». « L'oursin cru est garni d'une préparation de moules sautées de croûtons et de petits lardons. » A moins qu'on ne préfère une mousseline de merlan â l'oursin, des oursins rôtis (passés au four après- avoir été habillés d'un appareil à base d'ail et de fines herbes fraîches) ou des oursins à l’aïoli. « Dans ce cas, je les sers avec cinq petits légumes et un œuf de caille ».

LA PROVENCE
supplément "Sortir"

fr/restaurant-marseille-oursins.htm

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Pot-au-feu (recipe)

INGREDIENTS
- 4 pound tied bone-in beef chuck roast
- 4 pound (2- to 3-inch) bone-in short ribs
- 2 onions, quartered
- 2 medium carrots, halved lengthwise
- 6 quarts water
- 2 (3-inch) pieces celery
- 6 parsley sprigs
- 6 thyme sprigs
- 2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California
- 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
- 1 whole clove
- 8 small or 4 medium leeks (2 1/2 pounds)
- 1 pound small boiling onions (about 20), left unpeeled
- 8 (2-inch-long) veal marrowbones (optional)
- 8 small carrots (1 pound), peeled and trimmed, leaving 1/2 inch of stems
- 1 pound small turnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch wedges

Equipment:

- Equipment: 12-quart pot; cheesecloth; kitchen string
- Accompaniments: toasted baguette slices for marrow; coarse salt; Dijon mustard; finely grated fresh or bottled horseradish; cornichons
- Garnish: chopped parsley

PREPARATION
Cook meats:
Preheat convection oven to 425°F or regular oven to 450°F with rack in middle.

Pat meats dry, then rub with 2 1/2 teaspoons salt (total) and arrange in 1 layer in a large shallow baking pan with quartered onions and halved carrots. Roast, turning occasionally, until meats and vegetables are well browned, 35 to 45 minutes in convection oven; 45 minutes to 1 hour in regular oven.

Transfer meats and vegetables to pot with any juices from pan. Deglaze pan with a little water, scraping up brown bits, then add to pot with water (6 quarts) and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer, skimming foam and fat from surface.

Tie celery, parsley, thyme, bay leaves, peppercorns, and clove in a cheesecloth bundle and add to pot.

Cut off dark green part from leeks, reserving remainder, and wash . Fold greens and tie in 2 bunches, then add to pot. Gently simmer, uncovered, skimming as necessary, until meats are very tender, about 3 hours.

Prepare leeks and onions while meats simmer:
Trim roots from leeks, keeping ends intact, then, starting 1 1/2 inches from root end, slit each leek lengthwise and wash between layers. Tie leeks together in 2 bunches, tying each bunch in 2 places.

Blanch boiling onions in a medium pot of boiling water 1 minute, then drain and peel.

Cook meats:
Preheat oven to 200°F with rack in lower third.

Transfer meats to a shallow baking pan, discarding bones from short ribs, and keep warm, covered with foil, in oven. Discard cheesecloth bundle, leek greens, and cooked onions and carrots from broth, then skim off fat from broth with a skimmer or large spoon and keep broth warm over low heat.

Arrange marrowbones (if using) upright in 1 layer in a medium saucepan and add enough broth from pot (about 1 quart) to cover bones. Add 1 teaspoon salt and simmer gently, uncovered, until marrow is soft, 15 to 20 minutes.

While marrowbones cook, simmer boiling onions and leeks with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper in remaining broth in large pot, uncovered, 15 minutes.

Add small carrots and turnips and simmer, uncovered, until all vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.

Serve pot-au-feu:
Transfer marrowbones with tongs to a platter (discard liquid) and serve with baguette slices and coarse salt.

Discard bone from chuck roast and slice chuck 1/2 inch thick, then arrange, along with meat from short ribs, on a large platter.

Transfer vegetables to platter with a slotted spoon and cut string off leeks.

Season broth with salt and pepper, then spoon some over meats and vegetables to moisten and serve remainder in a soup tureen.

To eat, ladle broth over meats and vegetables in soup plates, then stir in horseradish and mustard to taste.